My saint crank/BB is a 2005 original bearings and they turn nice somehow but I have some side to side play in my axle. Do I change the cups with the bearings or can I remove them out the cups and get just new bearings? Not sure that bearing will come out being press fit.

I can still ride it but I think another 10-20hrs on it and it's done. I ride that bike 3 plus days a week on good weeks so won't be long before it's toast.

I think it might be time to start filling my bike piggy bank, do a custom bike build this winter and get rid of this 2004 A-Line. I'm not too certain what frame to get but a Santa Cruz V-10 or Trek Session 88 might be a possibility. Maybe not new frame but not more then 1 year old.

Pour tes bearings:
iamrider.com/forum/18-mechanic/179-how-t...tom-bracket-bearings

J'ai le bearing puller pour les enlever si jamais t'en as besoin.

J'avais le meme probleme que toi l'annee passee. J'ai changer les bearing et bingo.

Ceci etant dit, shiimano utilise des bearing special. J'ai pris les bearings qui fittait en circonference interieur et exterieur. Malheureusement, le bearing que j'ai acheter etait plus epais.

Le petit insert noir de shimano compense pour l'epasseur du bearing plus mince avec un shim + un 'fond' dans l'insert.

J'ai jeter le shim, j'ai limer le 'fond' dans l'insert noir pour le rendre plat. J"ai remis tout en place. Ca devient un BB comme les race face.

C'etait ghetto en crim comme facon de faire, mais j'ai pas acheter de nouveau cups et mon BB tiens la route jusqu'a maintenant.

Si tu veux plus d'info, demande moi.


Pour le frame:
Glory

C'est ce que je vais m'acheter pour mon prochain frame.

OK, je vais te parler de ca bientot, pour le moment ca vas rester telle qu'il est.

Merci

Yesterday I had a lot of rattling noises from my lower and rear (on the bike ) and just found what it was. 1st BB bearing getting very loose making noise on bumpy trails.
2nd lower shock bushing/sleeve is loose in the shock. I need to do repairs before I go back so I'll try and get it done before Friday but not certain.

Got a 9-sp shifter back on with a jagwire cable, everything is hooked up and tuned nice and smood. I had an 8-sp shifter & cassette so now either I take my 9-sp cassette off the One25 or do what I have wanted for a long time. Modify the cassette to 5-speed by keeping the 5 lower cogs and make an aluminum spacer to compensate the missing top 4 cogs, I'll decide tonight at Gary's.

Figured out how to remove the bearings out of the cups thanks to Slam's thread on this subject. However, suppliers are closed tomorrow and no time to go today plus I'm riding Friday come hell or high water. I'll pack them bearings up real good with high pressure lithium grease. They roll nice but have some sloppy play in them.

Next is some new sleeves for the shock and fine tune my bushings so I have zero play in that area. At the same time I'll machine a new rear axle 12mm X 150mm from aluminum to replace my steel 1lb axle.

If I had time and material I would also be removing my steerer tube out of my crown, it's also steel. I did that a few times on other forks and replace them with a custom machined aluminum steerer tube. I have an older model 888 with only 2 bolt holes so very limited to the choices of integrated stems but have no fear I have one designed and to be machined as well soon. These 2 last items is next on my list.

Well Gary and I worked on my A-Line tonight and got brand new bushings on the lower shock mount. It was also a good thing to take the shock and links apart because I had one bearing seized and 2 others almost dead which I saved with some lube. The rear suspension has zero sway or rattle in it now and once I got home I refilled the shock with air pressure (110lbs plus two (2) turns afterwards on the compression damping. It's now smood as butter.

Had to tune the shock again this morning so I did an approximate tune in the parking lot. First run I had a slight knocking noise from the shock on rebound. Second time up I decide to remove some air but by mistake all the air was released. Yep had the bobing effect on the rear (bike) so went down using a fireroad all the way to the car. Pumped it to 150lbs seeing when you remove the pump some air is lost, now it's 100% good. Sleeve we installed last night with bushings where perfect and no loose at all.

I compared two coils I have for my shock which are both 400lbs and 2.80" stroke, one fox and the other Manitou. I was surprised to see a huge difference in over all length, wire size and the Fox was way lighter. The Manitou coil was the one I have been using so I switched for the Fox. Even though they are rated both at 400lbs the smaller one being the Fox is a lot softer to start off but is progressive when you compress it. I left it on and going to go do some test runs tomorrow. My wife is going to shuttle me up 3-4 times tomorrow afternoon, kind of my lift access.

Next I need to replace the steerer tube by pressing it out and machining a new one out of aluminum. Also the rear axle out of aluminum instead of hardened steel.

As they say, one change at a time.

This A-Line of mine is a 2004 and was designed as a Freeride bike so high up on the BB. I had just a touch over 15-1/2" for a bb height always feel in the steeps like I'm going to do an endo. I lowered the front end as low as I can on the crowns and still have 8" at the very max. Then I lowered the rear by changing the shock position on the lower mount.I get about 8" as well on the rear this way but I'll be within 1/8" or less from hitting the link if I bottom out. All that done I'm at 14-1/2" BB height now.........woohoo

So I'm one inch lower now, looking forward to ride this big bike and see if it will handle like I think it will. If the weather is good and I go to Ottawa for parts I need in my shop then a pit stop at Camp Fortune will be in the works.

Wow..........what a difference having the center of gravity lower by one inch, I felt closer to the ground and stable. Going down steep grades was easier but that rear tire really needs to go soon, a real piece of crap.

And some say size doesn't matter , but one inch sure did make all the difference today.

Also the smaller coil (FOX) same 400lbs rating was way better and smood. I'll find out this Friday at Bromont how good all this is. My headset was getting stiff too today and acting up so need to open that up and see if it's just a cleaning and lube job or replace all together. It's the original 2004 CaneCreek.

Next, Aluminum steerer tube and aluminum rear axle.

T'as tellement fais d'essai avec ce bike la, tu voudras jamais t'en debarasser.

C'est un VRAi bike custom.

slam wrote:


Oui vraiment un VRAI custom.

I took the fork off and as I suspected the bottom bearing ring was in pieces and dry with all the bearings falling out. Also the rubber seal for the bottom cup/crown was missing and that's just somewhere since I built it back up in April. Took my FSA with sealed bearings that's new off the 4Hun and installed that instead on the A-Line. When I put back the top crown the stanchions where 1/4" lower, headset is a little thicker then my old one from both ends. Lowered the fork yet again so I under 8" of maximum travel, should be just fine till I get some flat crowns.

I wanted to know how much my A-Line weighs, put myself on the scale then with the bike and bingo 40.5 lbs. I was expecting more around 42 lbs at least seeing originally it was 46 lbs but it was a pleasant surprise.

That weight is very good for a bike of of its age!!! Alot of new bikes struggle to be that lite.

TOU93 wrote:

That's pretty much what I'm saying, I can most likely get this bike in the sub 40 lbs around 39 lbs or close.

Rigaud wrote:


Some Boxxer WC's will help I think they are the lightest Duel crown fork available at 2.7kg but no where near cheap.

Rigaud wrote:


y'a un Trek Session 88 complet pour 4900$ used de 1 jour au Sport Aux Puces de Longueuil!

Le gars qui a acheté ça n'avais jamais fait de DH et il s'est rendu compte que c'était pas pour lui!

Il est mint! pas avoir acheter le V-10, j'aurais sauter dessus! FOC RC2, Saint, Race Face Atlas il est s'a coche en tab...! la seul chose c'Est qui flache trop à mon goût!
ça fait becik super cher à des km à la ronde! mon volé en 10 min (V-10) est plus sleeper que ça...haha

Sinon, le V-10 ça torche en...j'ai plein de upgrades à venir sur le miens...cé toute en commande...mes des pédales Superstard du UK de 265g la pr! il est a 40.1 lbs et je vise le 38lbs...! ha j'ai trop d'avoir mes morceaux!

pis j'ai aussi un Cateye wireless sur ma commande! je vais mesurer nos top speed...ça va m'inciter à aller encore plus vite!

pis mon tune-up de Boxxer est fait pour 35$, ça pris 2 jours au Sports Aux Puces! c'est gars il connaisse ça!

chev wrote:


Hmmm 38lbs, le coil sur le shock em Ti enleve proche d'une lb et tas roue vas coler partere encore mieu. Aussi regarde voir quelle ressort tu as dans fourche, 100gr. de moin je pense et tas fourche vas performer encore meilleur. Seat post carbon puisse que ont as le cul en arriere anyway. LOL Quoi d'autre? reste pas grand chose.

The bike handle way better yesterday and CF was a good place to test the changes I made. Rear shock is perfect with the settings and where it's mounted giving me about 8" of rear suspension. Front en is very slack still so theirs room for lowering the front even more especially now that I have gone up 1/4" on the BB because of a higher stack on the headset.

Speaking of stack height, I want to get a headset with very low stack height and I was looking into integrated headsets but the ones that somewhat have thin cups. Anyone here have experience with this? Can someone with knowledge with low stack or zero stack height headsets give me some advice? I know it can be done, just need the right part.

If done properly I'm certain I can have a final BB height of 14-1/4" compared to my original 15-3/4".

Rigaud wrote:


c'est quoi ton headtube? 1-1/8?

tu peux checker pour un Canecreek, pas le moins cher, mais le meilleur sur le marché selon moi et plus solide, moins cher qu'un chrisking cependant.

moi j'ai commander un CaneCreek Standard 110 1-1/8 stack height 28,4mm à 97,8g et garantie 110 ans!!

tu peux trouver celui qui fit avec leur application:

www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

je crois que c'est le même que moi pour ton bike.

pour le spring Ti, y'a DSP qui est le meilleur mais je dois faire tester mon spring steel avant pcq c'est pas toujours exactement ce qui est écrit dessus. DSP peuvent le tester gratuitement avant l'achat d'un de leur spring, le seul hic, je dois leur envoyer mon spring steel pour le tester et ensuite ils m'envoient le spring Ti équivalent.

p-e je vais devoir attendre l'hiver pour ça ou je prend une chance avec un 450lbs x 2.75 comme ce que j'ai en ce moment...